Indigo 2 / Virus C LCD Replacement

[pmanderson]

The display on my Access Indigo (VERSION TWO) was hard to read unless the room was dark.
This annoyed me so much I was willing to risk damaging it to replace the display with one that was easier to read.

I ordered the following:

Everboquet mc16021e8-sblw
http://www.newark.com/everbouquet/mc16021e8-sblw/lcd-module-alphanumeric-16x2/dp/97K4628?Ntt=MC16021E8-SBLW

The difference:

* LED back lit. The original was fluorescent front lit.
* More blue than than indigo in color.
* The 4 screw holes are a tiny bit too small. They had to be shaved larger with an x-acto knife.

I'd rather have gotten a nice OLED or fluorescent display, but was unable to find a source matching the same form factor.

The most important thing when hunting for an alternative LCD display is getting one with a matching form factor. The Virus C/Indigo 2 use the uncommon 84mm x 44mm form size. Any other size will not fit without additional modifications.

Unsoldering the ribbon cable from the original display was difficult. Soldering it back on the replacement was a paint too.
In hindsight, I'd source out a ribbon cable with single in-line 16 pin connectors on both ends and solder pins onto the LCD module.

Here are some photos

Before:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/9483498207_7afa4d646e_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/9486317858_3d3c5e1f36_c.jpg

While taking it apart I noticed this ad hoc revision on the DSP.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2823/9486299588_9445be97f9_c.jpg

Use an x-acto knife to widen the screw holes a bit.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5327/9486320162_f39b61b262_c.jpg

The original display (top) handled bleedthru from the fluorescent lamp by painting over it with black paint (or fingernail polish). I did the same with the replacement (bottom) using a permanent black marker and electrical tape.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3817/9486307500_a2dd9b323d_c.jpg

After:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3755/9483523911_644d2314ae_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9486323768_b6b96432da_c.jpg




Regards,

Patrick Manderson
https://www.youtube.com/user/pmanderson70/videos

[namnibor]

Pretty cool color. I have the KC and although really love the 'demonic red' LED's all on panel, I too find that unless very low lighting, it's somewhat hard to read being both: a flat reflective surface, and would much prefer more of a black background with the 'demonic red' parameter information.

Since you obviously know your soldering iron and steady handy-work to sort this; would there be an option to think **outside the box** and place a type of angled-facing-slightly toward Virus Pilot that could be at it's apex height almost height of a knob, with an all-rectangular enclosure to where it could then somehow be mounted *over* dimensions of 'the hole' where the ribbon cable would be sight-unseen and possibly go OLED? I am talking aesthetically very neat but also entirely utilitarian without having to really alter any electronic connection, just positioning?!
Do not get me wrong, I really love the Industrial Design of the Virus KC, just always bothered a bit by fact it would have been cool to have that screen designed on a movable tandem if one so desired, like a mini-Korg Oasis sort of thing, sans the touch screen and size.

[pmanderson]

I don't think it's hard to read it at any angle with it where it's at now.
However, building a display out of the case could get in the way of the knobs and buttons adjacent to the display.

[XysteR]

I don't think it's hard to read it at any angle with it where it's at now.
However, building a display out of the case could get in the way of the knobs and buttons adjacent to the display.

I am about to do this myself to my Indigo 2. I am assuming I just have to de-solder the old cable, then solder it to the new lcd in the same pin/cable orientation?

[Timo]

Unsure how I missed this thread, but superb contribution! Didn't altering the LCD contrast setting (in the CTRL menu) help at all, before installing the new LCD?

Great photos and instructions, and end result. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Thus far, my own Indigo1 LCD shows no sign of losing clarity, fortunately (touches wood).

[chimney chop]

I recently tried a screen swap with my Redback Indigo 2 and my C desktop.

the screen in the desktop is higher contrast with a nearly black background whereas the Redbacks screen has a dark red background with lighter red characters.

when I had them both cracked open I was surprised to find the LCD pc boards were surprisingly different from one another.

when I had successfully swapped them and powered them up the desktop screen (transplanted from the Redback) maintained its brightness and low contrast characteristic.

the REDBACK screen (transplanted from the desktop c) however was VERY dim both in background and foreground.

thankfully when swapped back to their synths of origin all was thankfully back to normal.

whew!

[geretus]

Hi Guys - I see this post its quiet old - however, I hope somebody will still watch it and reply :).

I have the same issue with the LCD for my Indigo 1. LCD part identical as Indigo 2.
However, I managed to find an oled display with the same form factor but its not working ( might be since the controller indicated in the specs is not the same as for the original one - HD44780 vs WS0010 ).
Also - I wonder if I did something wrong also... for instance, I soldered the cable on both sides ( this was because there were contacts on both sides of the LCD plate).
Thanks for your input guys.